Surfing at Waikiki Beach
I am a sucker for highs. Thrills, where you're suddenly overwhelmed by a sharp sensation, and you're so caught up in the moment that there's no time for your body to even consider what's going on. It's all in your gut, there's no lag time between thought and action. Like synapses firing away while your mind remains blissfully blank. The high is so fleeting that, before you know it, the clouds break and you're falling back down like Icarus, and you hit the ground hard and come to again. That's how surfing for the first time felt. I can't even remember what happened between the getting-up-on-the-board part and the crashing-into-the-waves part, but it was absolutely amazing. And now I can't wait until my next high.
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